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The Pass · article

What makes the best Eggs Benedict?

Few dishes get judged as closely as a cafe's Eggs Benedict. It's the brunch test, the dish customers compare from cafe to cafe and remember when one stands out. The four components are simple. Getting them right isn't, and the cafes that do have built a loyal crowd of regulars on the back of one well made plate.

From The Pass · 6 min read
What makes the best Eggs Benedict?
Decision 01 · the bread

The base decides everything that follows

Everything in Eggs Benedict sits on the bread. It holds the bacon, the eggs and the hollandaise. If the bread fails, the dish fails, however good the rest is.

An English muffin is the traditional choice, and tradition is right here. The nooks hold sauce, the crumb stands up to two poached eggs and a generous spoon of hollandaise, and the toasted outside gives each bite some backbone. The customer cuts in, the yolk runs into the muffin, and the muffin holds.

Sourdough is fine if it's cut properly: a thick slice, well toasted, dense enough to take the weight. A thin slice of soft white sourdough turns to mush within ninety seconds and the plate arrives half collapsed. Brioche is wrong. It's too sweet and too soft, and it throws the savoury balance out. White toast is a cost cut, and customers notice.

Worth knowing

The English muffin is the dish's heritage. Eggs Benedict was created at the Waldorf Hotel in New York in 1894 (or earlier at Delmonico's, depending on which story you trust), and the muffin was the base in both stories. Use another bread if you like, but know what you're giving up.

Decision 02 · the bacon

How the bacon is cooked decides whether the dish is balanced

There are two bacon questions. First, bacon or ham (or salmon, or spinach)? Second, how do you cook it?

In Australian cafes, streaky middle bacon has won, and it's what customers expect. Ham turns up on some more traditional menus and works perfectly well, but bacon is the default for a reason. Salty, crisp, well rendered bacon cuts through the soft richness of the yolk and the butter sauce. Without it, the plate is all richness, and customers leave feeling heavier than they wanted to.

Cooking the bacon is where cafes lose the dish. Pan frying streaky bacon to order is hit and miss: on a busy Saturday, half the rashers come out chewy and half come out burnt. Oven bake it in batches instead. Lay the rashers flat on lined trays, bake at 180 degrees Celsius for twelve to fifteen minutes until evenly crisp, drain on paper and hold warm. Every rasher comes out the same, so every plate does too.

You can tell a lot about a kitchen from whether it does this.

Decision 03 · the egg

A poached egg is a three minute commitment

The poached egg is the easiest part to ruin and the easiest to get perfect. The technique is settled: a gentle simmer and a splash of vinegar. Crack a fresh egg into a small dish first and slide it in (don't drop it from a height). Three minutes for a fresh egg, four if it's been in the fridge a while.

The white sets on the outside and the yolk stays liquid. The customer cuts in and the yolk runs. A hard yolk on Eggs Benedict wastes the dish, because the runny yolk is why they ordered it. If it doesn't run, nothing else on the plate makes up for it.

Some cafes poach eggs in batches ahead of time to keep up with service. That works if you hold them in iced water and reheat them gently to order, but it's an extra step that slips when the kitchen is flat out. Poaching to order, with a three minute timer, gives the most reliable result.

Decision 04 · the hollandaise

The sauce is what customers remember

Hollandaise is the dish's signature. It's also the part most likely to break, and the part that most often decides whether a customer gives the dish a 6 or a 9.

From scratch hollandaise is the romantic version. Egg yolk whisked over a bain marie, butter added slowly to form an emulsion, lemon juice and salt to balance. When it's good, it's glossy and bright with lemon, just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, and warm enough to lift as it hits the egg.

It also breaks when service gets busy. The emulsion drops if the temperature climbs too high, and it separates if it sits too long without a whisk. On a busy Saturday, fresh hollandaise made at 07:00 is already a food safety question by 11:00. That's why many serious cafes now use a high quality prepared hollandaise. Consistency beats romance.

Whichever way you go, two rules don't bend. Hold the sauce at 60 degrees Celsius or above (the FSANZ hot holding temperature) in a warming station, and refresh the batch every four hours. Hollandaise held at room temperature is a fast route to a sick customer.

Worth knowing

Hollandaise portion size matters more than people think. A generous spoon, about 80ml a portion, makes the dish feel luxurious without being heavy. Drown it in 150ml and customers can't taste the egg, the bacon or the bread. Skimp at 40ml and the sauce looks like a garnish. Eighty millilitres is the number.

The pick

The best Eggs Benedict in Australia, in one sentence

A toasted English muffin, oven baked streaky bacon held warm, two eggs poached to order for three minutes, and eighty millilitres of glossy hollandaise held at 60 degrees or above and refreshed every four hours, finished with cracked black pepper and a few snipped chives.

That's it. No clever trick, no signature twist, no deconstructed version improves on it. The dish is a hundred and thirty years old and every brunch service since has refined it. Stick to the formula. The versions that go wrong are nearly always the ones trying to be clever, swapping the muffin for sourdough or the ham for something fancy.

If you run an Australian cafe and you're wondering whether to put Eggs Benedict on the menu, the answer is yes. Those four decisions are the test. Get all four right every time and customers will drive across town for it. None of them is hard, but each one has to be deliberate, and the cafes that get them right are building repeat business on one great plate.

Common questions

Common questions about Eggs Benedict

What is the best bread for Eggs Benedict?

A good English muffin. It's the traditional choice for good reason: the nooks hold the sauce, the crumb holds up under hollandaise and the toasted outside gives the bite some backbone. Sourdough works if it's dense and cut to the right thickness. Brioche is too soft and turns the dish into a sweet pile. White toast is a cost cut, and customers notice.

How long should you poach an egg for Eggs Benedict?

Three minutes for a soft, runny yolk in a fresh egg, and up to four if the egg has been in the fridge a week or more. Keep the water at a gentle simmer, not a rolling boil, with a splash of vinegar. The white should be set on the outside and the yolk should still run when the customer cuts in.

Can you make hollandaise in advance for service?

Yes, with care. Hold finished hollandaise at 60 degrees Celsius or above, the FSANZ hot holding temperature, in a warming station, and refresh the batch every four hours for food safety. Holding it at room temperature is a fast route to a sick customer. Many busy cafes use a high quality prepared hollandaise instead of making it fresh, and that's a fair call. Consistency when you're flat out matters more than a from scratch hollandaise that breaks at 11:00.

What is the difference between hollandaise and bearnaise?

Hollandaise is butter, egg yolk, lemon juice and salt. Bearnaise adds a reduction of white wine vinegar, shallot and tarragon. Bearnaise goes better with steak. On Eggs Benedict, it's hollandaise every time.

Should you use bacon or ham on Eggs Benedict?

Either is right. Bacon (streaky middle bacon, oven baked until crisp) is the Australian cafe default and what customers expect. Ham is the original (Eggs Benedict was created with Canadian back bacon). Smoked salmon makes it Eggs Royale, and spinach makes it Eggs Florentine. It's a regional choice, not a right or wrong one.

Why does my hollandaise split?

Usually one of three things. The butter went in too fast and the emulsion broke. The temperature got too high and the eggs scrambled. Or it sat too long without a whisk and separated. To rescue it, put a tablespoon of warm water or a fresh egg yolk in a clean bowl and whisk the broken sauce back in slowly. If the yolk has cooked, start again.

What food cost percentage should Eggs Benedict run at?

Eggs Benedict typically sits above the usual 28 to 35% food cost target for cafe food, and higher when bacon and butter prices spike. The ingredients aren't cheap (free range eggs, quality bacon, butter for the hollandaise, an English muffin or sourdough), and the dish has to feel generous. Pricing it right matters more than squeezing the food cost down.

From the kitchen

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