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What makes a great Anzac Biscuit chewy

Anzac Biscuits are close to sacred in Australia. Cafes all over the country sell them, especially in late April. The one worth selling is chewy, golden and rich with caramelised golden syrup, and the difference between that and a hard, dry biscuit comes down to one moment in the method: the bicarb. Get that right and the rest of the recipe is easy.

From The Pass · 4 min read
What makes a great Anzac Biscuit chewy
The history

The Anzac Biscuit was designed to last

Anzac Biscuits are tied to the care packages sent to Australian and New Zealand soldiers in World War I, though historians still argue over how many actually reached the front. The recipe had no eggs, which wouldn't survive the trip, and used golden syrup, butter and brown sugar to bind it and give it flavour. The biscuits had to last weeks at sea and then weeks more at the front. So the original Anzac was hard. That was the point, because hard meant it survived.

The cafe Anzac is a different biscuit. It gets eaten with a coffee at the table, not posted to Gallipoli, so it should be chewy, fresh and golden. That's the one that sells from the cabinet.

The history explains why the recipe has so few ingredients and no raising agent except bicarbonate of soda. Every ingredient holds the biscuit together as well as flavouring it. Nothing is spare.

The decision

The bicarb moment is the whole game

This is the step that decides the texture.

Melt the butter and golden syrup gently in a saucepan until smooth (don't let it boil). Dissolve the bicarbonate of soda separately in 30ml of boiling water. It will fizz hard. Pour the foaming bicarb water straight into the melted butter and syrup, and the whole lot froths up.

That foam is what lifts the biscuit, and it's the only lift the recipe has. Add the bicarb water cold and you get no lift. Leave the foamed mixture on the bench for a minute before it goes into the dry ingredients and the lift dies. You've got roughly 15 seconds from foam to mix.

Kitchens that get this right move fast here. The dry ingredients are weighed and waiting in a large bowl. The wet ingredients are warming. The bicarb water is boiled and ready. As soon as the bicarb hits the syrup, the cook stirs and pours the foaming liquid straight into the dry ingredients. With everything set up, 15 seconds is plenty.

The bake

Twelve minutes is chewy, fifteen is crisp

The other thing that matters is bake time. Same recipe, and the timer decides the texture.

At 160 degrees fan forced for 12 minutes, the biscuit comes out deep golden at the edges and slightly soft in the centre, then firms up on the tray to a chewy finish. That's the cafe cabinet biscuit, and customers love it.

At 15 minutes it's crisp all the way through. It snaps cleanly and keeps longer. That's the one for gift tins, the one that travels.

At eighteen minutes it's overbaked. The biscuit goes hard instead of crisp and the golden syrup turns bitter. At twelve minutes it looks underdone and you'll be tempted to leave it in. Trust the look and pull it out anyway.

Worth knowing

Anzacs firm up a lot on the tray as they cool. One that looks slightly underdone out of the oven will be perfect once it's cool. One that looks fully done out of the oven will be hard. Trust the underdone look.

The size

Tablespoon sized balls, flattened slightly

Portion size matters if you want every batch the same. The recipe makes 24 tablespoon sized balls (about 32 grams each). Space them five centimetres apart on lined trays, because Anzacs spread a lot, and flatten each one gently with the back of a spoon to about 1 centimetre thick. You get 24 even biscuits a batch, each about 28 grams baked, which is the right size for a single cabinet serve at $4 to $5.

It's tempting to eyeball the portions, and that's the second thing that makes Anzacs vary from batch to batch. Big ones underbake in the set time and small ones overbake. A 32 gram portion scoop or a tablespoon measure fixes it.

The verdict

Get the bicarb moment right and the rest follows

The Anzac is one of the simplest things a cafe will ever bake. How good it is comes down to a 15 second window, when foaming bicarb water hits hot syrup and lifts the whole dough.

Get that right, weigh the portions and pull the trays at twelve minutes. You'll have the Anzac customers remember from their grandmother's kitchen, the one that's gone from the cabinet by Tuesday.

One biscuit, one foam, one timer. Keep those consistent and customers will keep coming back to the cabinet for them.

Common questions

Common questions about Anzac Biscuits

What makes an Anzac Biscuit chewy and not crisp?

Bake time. Twelve minutes at 160 degrees fan forced gives a chewy biscuit and fifteen gives a crisper one. Same recipe, and the timer decides. For the cafe cabinet, chewy holds better and customers prefer it. If you need a longer shelf life, go crisp.

Why are my Anzac Biscuits hard?

Most likely they're overbaked. Anzacs firm up a lot as they cool, so they should come out of the oven looking slightly underdone. Fifteen minutes at 160 degrees fan forced is the limit. At eighteen you've made crackers.

What is the role of golden syrup in Anzac Biscuits?

Golden syrup gives Anzacs their caramel flavour and helps make them chewy. Swap it for maple syrup or honey and you've changed the biscuit. Maple syrup makes it too thin and tastes different. Honey crystallises differently and doesn't give the same chew.

Why does the recipe call for boiling water and bicarb?

The boiling water dissolves the bicarbonate of soda, and when that hits the hot syrup it foams. The foam gives the biscuit its lift and its crumble. Skip it, or use cold water, and the biscuit comes out dense. It's the most important step in the recipe.

Can I make Anzac Biscuits gluten free?

Not in Australia, because the biscuit is built on oats, and the Food Standards Code doesn't allow food containing oats to be called gluten free, as Coeliac Australia explains. You can make a wheat free version. Replace plain flour with a quality gluten free flour blend at the same weight, and use oats sold as uncontaminated or wheat free (standard rolled oats often carry traces of wheat). The texture will be slightly more crumbly than the original, but the flavour holds. Label it wheat free, not gluten free, and tell coeliac customers it contains oats, because some of them can't eat oats at all.

How long do Anzac Biscuits last?

Five days at room temperature in an airtight container is the working maximum for the cafe cabinet. They'll keep longer (up to two weeks), but they start to harden after the first week. For the best result, bake fresh every Monday and Thursday.

What food cost percentage do Anzac Biscuits run at?

Anzacs are one of the cheapest sweets you can put in a cafe cabinet, at around 15 to 20% food cost. Oats, flour, brown sugar, butter, golden syrup and coconut are all cheap in commercial quantities, and the recipe yields well. They're excellent for cabinet margin.

From the kitchen

The Anzac Biscuit recipe behind this article

The Anzac Biscuit in this article is one of 250+ chef tested dishes in the HospoSure dish library. It's costed for Australian suppliers, made in batches, and holds five days airtight in the cabinet.

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